Tuesday, September 15, 2009

'Skrap That'


Only in New York can a fashion show with a collection of ripped and sharpie-scribbled tees draw a crowd of hipster followers to the heart of Soho.

The invitation to the Skrapper fashion show arrived on my desk about a week ago, printed on a piece of denim fabric in the same kind of chicken scratch writing iconic of the new line. Prone to be a bit skeptic (and a bit snobbish), I reminded myself that I shouldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet an up-and-coming label.

With my coworker girlfriend in tow, we headed to the Red Bull Space – a venue found wedged between shuttered store fronts and roadwork.

The gathering outside was a mixture of newbie models, wanabe stylists and fashionistas, starving artists and buyers.

Needless to say, this was one event where the designer didn’t hide backstage before the start of the show – we saw him several times exiting and entering the space (well past the fashion show start time, of course).

Already sticky from the unexpected humidity and peeved from the wait, the offering of Skrapper’s own bottled wine did much to ease my mounting frustration (that and the free gift bags once I got to my seat).

The trumpet and electric guitar duet and the video projected “Bulls***, Bulls***, Name drop,Bulls***” on the wall did raise an eyebrow. I mean, what would a brand with only a limited collection of T-shirts online have to bring to the fashion roundtable?

The answer is: Nothing really. Unless we count the attitude.

Models swaggered past in nothing more than tees and black undergarments, appearing angry, sleep-deprived and possibly on drugs. To make for the lack of originality in the collection, one model decided to light a cigarette onstage; another, albino model Shaun Ross, bent over and spanked himself.

In what could be considered the second half of the show, models donned boxing gloves.

Why exactly?

To prove that T-shirts bearing the graffiti words “Republican, Democratic, Skrapper” stood a fighting chance against other fledgling fashion labels? Or was it to distract audience members enough to stay until the end of show?

Turns out that Skrapper is the work of artist and former Warhol exhibition alum William Quigley and designer Katie Theofilos. The portraiture-heavy tees include such well-known icons as Audrey Hepburn and Muhammad Ali

(LIGHT BULB GOES OFF) Maybe that’s where the boxing gloves come from?

Whatever the inspiration, the text on the gift bag couldn’t have summed up tonight more perfectly (yes, I skipped the afterparty):

“Skrapper, Skrapper, Skrap on, Skrapper, Skrapper, Why... Skrapper Who?”

Sunday, September 13, 2009

'Siriano From the Sea'



Standing at only a few inches taller that I, it was Christian Siriano’s short, wiry frame that caught my attention in an East Village thrift shop last June.

Having skimped out on the recent installments of the ‘Project Runway’ series, it took me some time to realize that the familiar face at Buffalo Exchange was the show’s winner from its fourth season.

The 23-year-old wowed judges with his sophisticated and detail-driven designs, winning the most challenges than any other contestants before him. Today, Siriano elicited the same reaction from a celebrity-studded audience at his Spring-Summer 2010 fashion show in Bryant Park.

Rising from the foamy sea, the designer’s Venus emerged in a glimmering white tailored suit and large brim hat. The churning of the Mediterranean Sea, which served as his inspiration, washed up in the skirts and jackets – a blend of aqua, green, blue, white and black.

In Siriano’s favorite nude colors, models wore beaded bodices that gave way to a lavishly draped, origami-folded organza skirt. His signature ruffles hugged the necklines and waists of satin dresses. There were flounces in the shoulders, subtle pleating and balloon hems to add further volume to his eveningwear.

Model Alessandra Ambrosio and actress Mena Suvari applauded the satin-faced organza gowns, an explosion of romantic ruffles in a blush and then a molten earth color – Venus had made her way to the Italian coastline.

At a time when other designers prefer black leather and studded accents, Siriano presented a collection that was tranquil and fluid, as cool as a dip in the ocean would be. It was an interpretation praised by his most loyal critic/mentor Tim Gunn, who equated the young designer to “this generation’s Marc Jacobs.”

Gunn told the press: “I feel like a proud dad.”

As for the shoes? The teetering models stood on vertiginous platforms with a sharp, claw-like heel. According to the Associated Press, the shoes mark his third lineup for his campaign with Payless.

Now that’s fierce.

-S. Gonzalez

*Photos courtesy of style.com



Friday, September 11, 2009

'Fashion Mayhem'

It may be too soon to tell whether rubbing elbows with Eric Damon, costume designer for ‘Gossip Girl,’ or the Olsen twins at Bergdorf Goodman last night for Fashion’s Night Out really garnered sales for New York City retailers.

After all, someone had to pay the shop girls for their extra hours of work and make sure the cocktails and the champagne kept coming.

The global shopping spree spanning 13 countries did, however, generate the kind of frenzy and excitement that had been lacking ever since the Wall Street abandoned ship in 2007. New York City shoppers had not one, but 300 participating stores willing to stay open until 11 p.m. and cater to a smattering of celebrities.

Some highlights:

- Top Chef’ host Padma Lakshmi judged a cook-off on Bergdorf’s seventh floor between Cynthia Rowley, Peter Som and Lela Rose.

- An autograph signing by designers Isabel and Ruben Toledo at Barney’s.- Shoe designer Stuart Weitzman challenged his customers to a ping-pong match.

- Charlize Theron made a pit stop at Dior; Kate Hudson visited the Stella McCartney store; and Justin Timberlake made an appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue.


But here in New York, Fashion’s Night Out was just a sample of what will hopefully be in store during Fashion Week. Although Fashion Week officially kicked off yesterday with a few low key designers (with the exception of BCBGMaxAzria and perhaps Ports 1961), be prepared for extended coverage on happenings and shows like Derek Lam, Diane Von Furstenberg and Zac Posen by yours truly!

Already the tabloids are buzzing with news that there will be an afterparty after the Marc Jacobs show, which was canceled last year for financial reasons. This time the afterparty is back and to be co-hosted by Lady Gaga.

Will this year’s Fashion Week hold true to all the hype? The pressure is on.

-S. Gonzalez

Monday, September 7, 2009

'Shop Before You Drop'


The sign that hung over the fifteen cash registers reminded all shoppers of the rules of the game: ‘No elbowing, no fighting, no refunds.’

With only an hour left until the end of the Barney’s Warehouse Sale, it felt like a race to bag the next Lanvin dress or Marni trouser. Shoppers dragged plastic garbage bags filled with their finds, while others loaded their arms with clothing.

In the corner, women tore of their clothes without the slightest humility. They jostled and jockeyed for mirror space. They tossed unwanted clothes onto a long table behind them.

I felt my pulse racing. Within minutes, my girlfriend already had three dresses slung over her arm.

It was no time to be indecisive. I split from girlfriend, and weaseled my way past the racks labeled with women’s sizes and designer names, now irrelevant.

Piazza Sempione, L’Wren Scott and Michael Kors. I whizzed past the labels and focused on finding an XS dress or top. Fifteen minutes later, my patience paid off.

A paint-splattered white silk top from Gemma (worn by celeb Lauren Conrad, see below) was the ultimate in cool, relaxed New York chic. Even in a size M, the loose top didn’t look a bit oversized on me and my high-rise cigarette jeans.

But it was the white crepe Marc Jacobs scarf top which was the real deal breaker. Having seen one shopper try the top on, I raced to the back of the warehouse where I had seen a version of it in a size 6.

Once reunited with my girlfriend, we made a beeline to the register. Smug and satisfied with our picks, we guessed how much we would save from a 75% discount.

The cashier clicked past the computer prompts and I saw my $140 Gemma top (shown below on Lauren Conrad) drop to $44.50. My $539 Marc Jacobs blouse discounted to $135.

As for the sweet smell of shopping victory: Priceless.

-S. Gonzalez

*Photo courtesy of thehills4life.blogspot.com and racked.com

Friday, September 4, 2009

'Before You Shop'



There is something about purchasing a pair of Louis Vuitton shoes for $160 from an original retail price of $1,000 that would leave most shoppers dizzy from an adrenaline rush.

Bargain-hunting is a universal concept. But sales of this extreme can only be found in America.

The two young women standing outside the Barney’s Co-op Warehouse Sale on Seventeenth Street showed me their purchases: Gold satin Louis Vuitton shoes and a pair of pale blue Chanel boots among, but not including apparel.

Like soldiers returning from a winning battle, the two women were triumphant and proud. Their voices rang from the news that their spoils each cost $200 or less.

My girlfriend later confirmed the women’s testimony.

“It’s AMAZING,” she wrote to me in a text message yesterday. “It’s so cute and I love it. Ahhh, you have to go before it ends!”

Now with the warehouse sale to add as another swipe to my credit card this weekend (Labor Day sales and new Fall arrivals here I come!), I realized that I need to have a plan of attack. Soldiers don’t go to war without armor, right?

With so many trends this season (leather jackets, fur accents,lace tops, brogue shoes, etc.) and must-haves (trench coat, sheer blouses, LBD, over-the-knee boot), the only way to sort Diane Von Furstenberg from Alexander McQueen is to prioritize.

I make a plan. Best way to do this is by taking a look in that closet before shopping.

- Set aside the staples to your wardrobe you do plan to wear – ie. the leather boots, the wool coat, the cashmere sweater.

- Do the pieces fit? Does anything need to be dry cleaned, tailored, or resoled? Write down a note to do so if the answer is ‘yes.’

- What’s missing? Write down the essentials first (can’t do without a pair of trousers for work) and your wish list items. I have both a look book and an ongoing list that I add to with images or or written notes.

- Do a little research. Not everyone spends their working day forecasting trends, merchandising and reading the latest fashion newsletters and magazines. Shop quickly around and jot down prices and places where you might be able to find what you’re looking for. It helps!

Oh, and one last thing. Set your alarm early. The best shopping is done before the crowds!

-S. Gonzalez