'American Glamour'

A testament to the expertise and imagination that marks American fashion history, creations from well-known and fledgling American designers form part of a dual exhibition now at The Musuem at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology).

More than 75 pieces that date from the 1930s to the present represent “American Beauty: Aeshetics and Innovation in Fashion.” “American Glamour: Fashion, Freedom and Igenuity” features 15 pieces from 15 American designers like Halston, Bill Blass, Isabel Toledo and the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte.

A pink blush gown from Charles James in 1953 that experimented with shape and contouring, to a floor-sweeping crimson strapless gown from Halston in 1976 that satisfied our aesthetic sensibilities are examples of some of the designs now on display.

Curators of the exhibitions, Deputy Director Patricia Mears of FIT and vintage expert Clair Watson sought pieces that reflected pioneering efforts in dressmaking and tailoring, in addition to ornamentation, engineering and geometry.

But unlike other exhibitions, this one – which opened Friday and will run until April 10 – is unlike any others of its kind…

First, the FIT exhibition gathers video commentary from fashion heavyweights like Hamish Bowles of Vogue and Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein.

And for those die-hard vintage shoppers, museum-goers can shop their favorite pieces from the exhibition – the graphic Campbell soup print dress reminiscent of Andy Warhol from the mid- 1960s and psychedelic cotton twill Geoffrey Beene mod dress from the 1960s – both on sale at yoox.com.

The “American Glamour” sale on yoox.com, which has partnered with FIT to create the two-part exhibition, keeps the love of vintage alive. Not only are these vintage pieces a rarity (what are the chances of finding another of its kind), but proves that real American glamour goes farther than sportswear.

According to Holly Brubach, creative consultant YOOX special projects, the exhibition arrives “at the perfect time.”

Here, here, Ms. Brubach.

-S. Gonzalez

'Channeling Chanel'

Amidst the release of films chronicling the illustrious Coco Chanel’s life, steamy love affairs and beginnings of her fashion house, another house of ‘Coco’ finds itself back in the spotlight.

At the Cannes Film Festival this past weekend, film critics debated Chanel’s rumored love affair with composer Igor Stravinsky – the subject of the film “Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky" (bottom right). But few people know that not so far away in Scotland, the mansion where Chanel retreated to with another former lover is set to undergo a facelift.

The second Duke of Westminster, named Hugh ‘ Bendor’ Grosvenor, bought the dilapidated Rosehall mansion (below center) in 1924. The French designer (shown left) decorated the 20-room mansion, which hosted the likes of Winston Churchill and other friends of the duke.

Inspired by the same French designer who still garners attention 30 years after her death, businessman Muhammed Sayeed Cohwdry purchased the property in hopes of restoring Rosehall to its former grandeur.

The plan is to transform Rosehall House into a luxurious country club, catering to the elite in search of holiday accommodation or a new home. Cohwdry plans to divide the mansion into seven apartments and to add an additional 12 houses onto the estate.

Despite the renovations, Cohwdry, 53, promises to save what remains of Chanel and decorate anew according to her aesthetic.

“I want her touch to remain in the house,” the businessman told Herald reporter David Ross.

And there is a bit of the Chanel touch that still lingers within Rosehall’s crumbling walls.

According to the Herald and building reports, Chanel’s signature beige (a radical decor choice at the time) and browns are consistent throughout most of the rooms. There is a splash of green for the downstairs cloakrooms, chimneys made of painted timber and the floral wallpaper adorning one bedroom was reportedly hand-painted in France.

But what of the new decorating to come at a place once visited by fashion’s most prized and sought after couturier?

Would Rosehall channel the spirit of Chanel who created the infamous little black dress and the two-piece tweed suit? Would there be a wallpaper painted with interlocking C’s – as found today on quilted Chanel bags?

Can you imagine walking through the drawing room of Rosehall House where a fire cart, which dates to Chanel’s time, stays there still? Rising above the smell of timber is the scent of Chanel no. 5 perfume.

The designer once said: “There have been several Duchesses of Westminster, but there is only one Chanel.”

Chanel always leaves her mark.

-S. Gonzalez

*Photos courtesy of jenniebinsc.wordpress.com,8333696@fotopic.net and fashioncopius.typepad.com