'American Glamour'

A testament to the expertise and imagination that marks American fashion history, creations from well-known and fledgling American designers form part of a dual exhibition now at The Musuem at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology).

More than 75 pieces that date from the 1930s to the present represent “American Beauty: Aeshetics and Innovation in Fashion.” “American Glamour: Fashion, Freedom and Igenuity” features 15 pieces from 15 American designers like Halston, Bill Blass, Isabel Toledo and the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte.

A pink blush gown from Charles James in 1953 that experimented with shape and contouring, to a floor-sweeping crimson strapless gown from Halston in 1976 that satisfied our aesthetic sensibilities are examples of some of the designs now on display.

Curators of the exhibitions, Deputy Director Patricia Mears of FIT and vintage expert Clair Watson sought pieces that reflected pioneering efforts in dressmaking and tailoring, in addition to ornamentation, engineering and geometry.

But unlike other exhibitions, this one – which opened Friday and will run until April 10 – is unlike any others of its kind…

First, the FIT exhibition gathers video commentary from fashion heavyweights like Hamish Bowles of Vogue and Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein.

And for those die-hard vintage shoppers, museum-goers can shop their favorite pieces from the exhibition – the graphic Campbell soup print dress reminiscent of Andy Warhol from the mid- 1960s and psychedelic cotton twill Geoffrey Beene mod dress from the 1960s – both on sale at yoox.com.

The “American Glamour” sale on yoox.com, which has partnered with FIT to create the two-part exhibition, keeps the love of vintage alive. Not only are these vintage pieces a rarity (what are the chances of finding another of its kind), but proves that real American glamour goes farther than sportswear.

According to Holly Brubach, creative consultant YOOX special projects, the exhibition arrives “at the perfect time.”

Here, here, Ms. Brubach.

-S. Gonzalez

'Have a Seat'

A dream first starts with an obsession. Realizing it, takes passion.

Henrik Lange was just six years old when he bought his own Kive desk chair by Fritz Hansen. Little did he know that it would be the beginning of his obsessive furniture collecting and also a prequel to a love affair with Fabricius & Kastholm.

In an interview with City Magazine, Lange reveals that anyone can turn an obsession into a lucrative venture.

Danish architects Preben Fabricius and Jorgen Kastholm founded their design firm in 1961, creating their line of Danish furniture for only eight years. International critics grouped the duo with the likes of other greats like Hans Wegner and Poul Kjaerhom. But a personal battle waged between the two caused a permanent rupture and production ceased.

Furniture enthusiast Lange found himself attracted to the vintage F&K furniture more than 25 years after the defunct company disappeared from the furniture scene. The clean lines and silhouettes of the leather and steel pieces, unusual for the time, were what lured him into buying a few F&K chairs at an antique shop.

But it was an auction over the iconic F&K Grasshopper chair (similar to the one above) that sold for 45,000 Euros that would cause Lange to think: Would it be possible to revive and produce the line, returning it to its former glory?

The answer was: Why not?

“I didn’t think much of the obstacles at the time,” Lange told City Magazine. “It was more of a fantasy.”

Reality settled in once Lange completed the superhuman task of wooing and buying the rights to the company from Kastholm. Fabricius had since died in the 1980’s at the age of 52. And the only conditions to be met were that Lange reproduce the entire collection and that the quality of the line match the original.

This wasn’t a problem for Lange who returned to the original F&K production factory where workers molded the steel arms of the chairs and sanded down the rosewood seats.

“All great companies are built on passion,” said Lange, who now reproduces the line under the auspices of Lange Production.

Passion and excellence, I’d say.

The resurrected F&K line has received positive reviews not only from City Magazine, but other top design publications. New designers such as Grete Jalk, who’s GJ Chair and Nesting Tables are permanent fixtures at MoMa, are also in talks to get onboard.

Living by his vision of form, finish and function (the three F’s), this is one show you better take a seat for. You won’t want to miss it.

-S. Gonzalez